Set of Three or Two- HOW THE WAVES BREAK

My wave riding boogie boarding friends all had theories of "HOW THE WAVES BREAK". I remember that the cadence was important to understand. If you could time those waves you could actually get a chance to stand up in between and compose yourself......or run.
At the North Shore the waves are more sheer like huge veils hung high and white lace falling over them.
My palette pales in comparison.